The ugly side of beauty | Inquirer Opinion
Undercurrent

The ugly side of beauty

/ 04:20 AM January 22, 2024

In an ideal world, meritocracy would dictate that success is the fruit of hard work and talent alone. Yet, extensive research about the “beauty premium,” shows that attractive people are often perceived as more competent, more likable, and more trustworthy. This leads to better job opportunities, higher earnings, as well as preferential treatment in both the workplace and social setting. Unfortunately, this also shapes a society that is inclined to go to extreme lengths to meet narrow beauty standards—embracing everything from cosmetic surgery to exhaustive beauty regimens, often at the expense of their health, finances, and sometimes even their life.

Last week, a 39-year-old woman died from alleged complications from availing of a glutathione and stem cell intravenous (IV) infusion in an unregulated clinic in Quezon City. Right after the treatment, the victim suffered a seizure and fell unconscious, with anaphylactic shock reported as the cause of death. This prompted the Department of Health (DOH) to issue warnings to the public, urging them not to avail of glutathione IV treatments and to avoid stem cell treatments from unlicensed clinics.

This is not the first time authorities have raised alarms. Since 2011, The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has been quite vocal against using intravenous glutathione as a skin-lightening agent due to its potentially severe side effects, including damage to the liver, nervous system, and kidneys, as well as an increased risk for infectious diseases. The Philippine Dermatological Society issued its own public warning, having documented at least 69 cases of adverse reactions. The recent tragedy in Quezon City is also not the first fatality to be purportedly linked to glutathione infusions. In 2020, a similar incident occurred when a woman died following a glutathione treatment at a spa in Sampaloc, Manila.

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Officially, glutathione injections are prescription drugs, intended primarily to reduce chemotherapy’s side effects and should only be purchased through licensed pharmacies. However, the actual use diverges significantly. FDA lawyer Pamela Angeline Sevilla, in a recent radio interview, highlighted the alarming proliferation of DIY intravenous glutathione being sold online and marketed for skin whitening. I tried doing a quick search on known e-commerce platforms and found hundreds of listings, illustrating the troubling ease of purchasing and self-administering the drug at home. There are even local vloggers who post tutorials on how to self-inject. Administrators of online platforms should conduct preemptive screening efforts and actively dissuade the sale of these products.

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Numerous beauty clinics, spas, and wellness centers openly advertise glutathione IV treatments as a beauty enhancement. These establishments typically require only a business permit to operate, placing them beyond the FDA’s regulatory reach. The recent fatality brings to the forefront the need for more robust regulatory oversight to prevent such tragic outcomes. Perhaps it is worth reconsidering how the scope of DOH—through the Bureau of Health Facilities and Services—could be broadened to also effectively monitor the services being offered by beauty and wellness clinics to ensure proper compliance and enforce stringent penalties for any violations.

Unfortunately, increased public knowledge and regulatory measures seem insufficient to truly alter consumer behavior. A broader examination of the beauty industry reveals a persistent willingness to embrace risk in pursuit of conventional beauty ideals. Apart from glutathione IVs, many have been victimized by mercury-infused bleaching creams and risky liposuction procedures. Now, it appears unregulated stem cell treatments are also gaining traction. This pattern suggests that even awareness of potential dangers, including death, doesn’t dissuade individuals from pursuing them.

A cultural shift that needs to occur is to redefine beauty norms so we can slowly dismantle the harmful stereotypes that drive the demand for risky treatments. The media can be an essential catalyst in steering that change. For instance, I admire the efforts of Morena the Label, an online community and clothing line that raises awareness about everyday manifestations of colorism and the discrimination experienced by Filipinos with a darker skin tone. The brand counters this through campaigns and products that instill a sense of pride and confidence in being kayumanggi, in the hope that our society can gradually unlearn its obsession with having fairer skin.

Confronting the ugly side of the beauty industry is a battle both against unsafe practices and ingrained perceptions. The path forward calls for more than just stricter controls and oversight of hazardous treatments, but also about reexamining, redefining, and diversifying our personal and cultural standards of beauty.

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