No past tense for Bohol’s fallen churches
Perhaps it is sacrilegious to show more sadness for the fallen churches. After all, I am a child of Bohol. Of course, my heart sinks for all my fellow Boholanos who lost their lives because of the horrendous earthquake.
But for the churches, I cannot explain the sadness I feel. Growing up in the province, we passed these churches on our way to different towns. Most of them are situated along the province’s major highway. They are practically our milestones for each town en route to our destinations. I remember passing eight or so churches before reaching my mother’s hometown of Candijay. When we took guests to the Chocolate Hills, it would be another set of churches to pass. I remember asking my parents why all the churches were in front of the municipal halls. That question always segued into a conversation on history.
The churches of Bohol are not only historical treasures, they are also part of our lives as Boholanos. A friend just posted on Facebook a picture showing the destruction of Baclayon church, where she was married 17 years ago. Another friend posted a picture of Maribojoc church, where her ancestors were laid to rest. Then I saw the photo of Dauis church—and it broke my heart. This is my favorite church in Bohol. I admit it is quite ironic that a not-too-devout Catholic actually has a favorite church.
Although I am confident that these churches will be restored, I cannot let this devastation pass without saying something. We owe a lot to our churches. These centuries-old structures are a big part of what makes us Boholanos. During the month of May, many of the town fiestas are held in honor of the towns’ patron saints. Additionally, during Holy Week, locals and out-of-towners alike embark on visitas iglesias in the province.
This is my heartfelt tribute to three of our churches. I speak of them in the present tense, as they are all still fresh in my mind.
Baclayon church. The Immaculate Conception Church is probably the most famous church in Bohol. Built by the Jesuits in 1595, it is the oldest stone church in the country, and second in antiquity only to San Agustin Church in Intramuros (1571). It is easy to forget that these churches were made by our native ancestors, who were slaves to the Spaniards at that time. The church is made of coral stones from the sea. A pipe organ and a large bell were installed a century later. Inside the church are frescoes, stained glass and old chandeliers that never fail to move us to hark back to history books. It is a popular venue for weddings.
This church has a magnificent view as it looks out to the Mindanao Sea. It is a pleasure to see the church to the left and the sea to the right, as we make that slight curve along the highway. Anyone who has visited Bohol and has taken a countryside tour will know exactly what I mean.
Loboc church. Originally built in 1602, the Church of San Pedro is the second oldest in Bohol. It is located in one of the interior towns—i.e., not along the coast. The Jesuits moved from Baclayon and made Loboc their headquarters since it was a safer location that protected them from their Moro adversaries. This church is right in front of the renowned Loboc River, where many tourists take a raft, enjoy lunch and a serenade by locals by the riverside.
The church has a hexagonal bell tower and features both baroque and neoclassical styles. As we all know, part of the cultural influence of the Spaniards was western music. One of the highlights of this church is the pipe organ, situated on a choir loft and installed by the Recollects in 1820. No doubt, this was literally instrumental in how Loboc evolved to become “the music town of Bohol.” We are all so proud of the Loboc Children’s Choir and the Loboc Band, both of which have garnered international awards and recognition.
Dauis church. Although I am not from the town of Dauis, the Our Lady of the Assumption Church is my favorite church. My siblings and I always make it a point to pay a visit whenever we are in Bohol. This church is located at the edge of Panglao Island facing Tagbilaran City. From the grounds, we can see both the old bridge and the causeway that connect the two islands. The church features both romanesque and byzantine influences. Inside, there are beautiful frescoes, including an illusion of a coffered ceiling, and a wooden pulpit.
But to me, the beauty of this church goes beyond the visual. As a child, I was enchanted by tales about the mysterious statue of the patroness, Our Lady of the Assumption. As school children, we enjoyed whispers of stories that the statue had wandered off to visit devotees in the night. People claim to see her camiseta full of amorseco as evidence of her stroll.
But there is another thing that is as tangible as it is baffling. Right at the church’s altar is a little stream of fresh water. Its lack of any salt content is inexplicable considering the sea’s proximity. Locals believe that this water has miraculous healing powers, a gift from the patroness.
The disaster that happened to my home province is one event that would compel me to visit a miraculous church. This is probably one of the worst disasters Bohol has experienced. It is time to manifest the character and spirit that our faith and our churches have built in us. I am absolutely sure we will get up and make ourselves stronger. Bangon, Bohol!
Crissie Hontanosas ([email protected]) was born and brought up in Tagbilaran, Bohol. She is a director at the Advisory Center for Climate Change & Sustainability.
