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imns



Chef as ‘National Artist’


Philippine Daily Inquirer
First Posted 02:08:00 01/19/2008

Does our country have a National Artist for the culinary arts? This thought occurred to me while I was having breakfast and reading newspaper articles about respected comedian Dolphy Quizon being recommended by Senate President Manuel Villar for the National Artist honor.

When I did some checking, I was disappointed to learn that the culinary arts are not among the categories in our country’s National Artist award system. The other important arts are there but not culinary arts which are often practiced alongside or parallel to the fields of music and dance. I was also disappointed to learn that much needs to be done in terms of scholarly research on our culinary heritage. Most of the available culinary books are recipe compilations, while some works are parts of nutrition manuals and home economics teaching materials.

The UNESCO considers the culinary arts as part of intangible cultural heritage under the domain of “social practices, rituals and festive events.” The Philippines is one of the 87 State Parties to the 2003 Convention for the Safeguarding of Intangible Cultural Heritage. The culinary arts impart a multi-sensory experience of a people’s culture and traditions. Cuisine helps define cultural identity. Historians and anthropologists give high value to accounts of the culinary practices of cultures and to articles about the production, preparation, presentation and consumption of food and drink.

Many Filipinos gifted with culinary creativity and ingenuity have proven themselves worthy of national and international acclaim, respect and admiration. I recall that a Filipino is the chef at the White House. Thousands of young Filipinos are choosing careers in the culinary arts. Enrollments in culinary courses and hotel and restaurant management programs are up.

There already are laws, presidential proclamations and guidelines about the National Artist awards. Maybe these could be amended to include culinary arts in the awards. The Cultural Center of the Philippines (CCP) and the National Commission for Culture and the Arts (NCCA) would know how to go about this. If laws need changing, then senators and congressmen should act on them. I believe this matter is imbued with national interest because culture is part of the national patrimony.

I hope all our leaders will do what is best. Some of our culinary traditions might already be on their way to being lost as modern culture literally and figuratively eats away our indigenous culinary heritage. A “National Artist for the Culinary Arts” will serve as a champion for preserving and promoting the culinary heritage of the Philippines. Such a national artist will be able to help raise funds for, and even lead, research projects relative to Philippine cuisine.

EARL VICTOR L. ROSERO (via email)



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