A delicious road to peace
They called it “Chefs for Peace,” the first of a planned series of gatherings in which different chefs would collaborate on a meal and sell tickets to the public, all for the cause of peace.
Initially, as was my impression, the dinner was supposed to raise funds for the families of the “Fallen 44” SAF troopers killed on a cornfield in Mamasapano. But chef Tatung Sarthou, one of the instigators of the project, said raising money was not really the main aim of “Chefs for Peace.” Rather, it was to broaden the taste sensibilities of Filipinos, especially those ensconced in the safe and secure lair of Metro Manila, to other flavors, ingredients, cooking methods and chefs and cooks around the Philippines. And because this was a dinner to promote peace among all Filipinos—but especially with our Moro brothers and sisters, most of whom live in Mindanao—the evening’s meal was strong on dishes with the taste and flavors of Mindanao, some of which are unfamiliar to most Filipinos.
For starters, we had blue crab cakes with aligue sauce, a concoction of crab fat and roe with coconut milk popularized by the Zamboanga-based restaurant Alavar’s. Chef Dino Datu paired the crab cakes with pako or fern salad, the blandness of the greens pleasantly contrasting with the strong sea flavor of the crab cakes.
This was followed by Chef Sau del Rosario’s roasted pumpkin soup with foie gras, corn and a deep-fired ravioli stuffed with seafood. Indeed, the soup was redolent with the flavors of the sea.
Chef Tatung took charge of the main dish: grilled chicken breasts in a sauce made from burnt coconut meat and coconut milk, using spices that make this dish very popular among the Tausug of Sulu.
For dessert, Chef Jackie Laudico had a duo of Mindanao favorites: a bonbon made with Malagos chocolate (from Davao) and a rose-infused praline.
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The dinner was held at the lower level of the newly-opened Estancia Mall in Capitol Commons in Pasig, and was supported by dining establishments in the mall: XO46 Heritage Bistro, Café Mediterranean, Jipan, and Ba Noi’s. Providing musical entertainment were a church choir and folk singer Darryl Shy who I understand was a finalist in “The Voice” Philippines.
Chef Tatung said the dinner was a “tribute” not just to the “Fallen 44” but to all who fell that morning of Jan. 25 in Mamasapano —the call being for “inclusive peace” that recognizes the death toll on all sides of the decades-long conflict. “We want to clarify that we do not wish to exclude our Muslim brothers in our efforts for peace,” Chef Tatung said in a social media post. “We are all Filipinos and are equally at a loss over this tragedy.”
Tickets for the evening’s event went for P1,044 per head (certainly most reasonable for a dinner featuring the culinary contributions of the country’s ranking, established and up-and-coming culinary stars). But perhaps the horrendous traffic—since the “Chefs for Peace” dinner coincided with the Edsa anniversary—helped explain some of the empty seats.
Beyond the fund-raising effort though, “Chefs for Peace,” said Chef Tatung, hoped to broaden the culinary horizons of Filipinos, out of the narrow borders of our individual families and communities, out of the dining habits we have locked ourselves into, and on to the wider world outside, specifically in oft-overlooked areas around the country.
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One of these is Mindanao, and Chef Tatung bewailed the lack of awareness of the richness of Mindanao’s bounty—its seafood, livestock, vegetables, fruits and grains. He cited in particular certain spices and herbs that are mainstays in Maguindanao, Tausug, Lanao and other cooking traditions but are little known in Luzon and the Visayas. Chef Tatung dreams of cooks casting a wider net for their ingredients, and thereby also enriching our taste buds and culinary horizons.
Then, too there are young talents out there, who, for reasons like learning different cooking traditions and being content to cook in their enclaves of clan and neighbors, deserve wider exposure and could learn to broaden their reach by working alongside chefs from other areas and inclinations.
Sharing our table that evening was Glenda Barretto, she who built the name and reputation of Via Mare, and, through her original concoctions, upgraded Filipino cuisine and raised it to the level of international recognition. Indeed, the four featured chefs and their friends that night excitedly took turns posing for “selfies” with the esteemed “grand dame” of Filipino cuisine. But she nodded eagerly, listening to Chef Tatung extol the virtues of “more inclusive” cuisine as a way to build and strengthen national identity and unity.
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“Chefs for Peace,” by the way, seems to be a common effort of chefs everywhere. There is, for instance, “Chefs for Peace” based in Jerusalem founded by a group of Jewish, Christian and Muslim chefs “committed to exploring cultural identity, diversity and coexistence through food.”
On their website, the Jerusalem-based chefs assert that “food—its preparation, sharing and enjoyment—(is) a powerful means of creating a bond with others and revealing that which is valued by all three faiths: food, family and friends.
“We understand the power of food as a bridge to mutual acceptance and see peace as a delicious possibility. Our message is simple: only real people living and working together, not politicians, will create peace on the ground. For us, peace happens every day, in the kitchen and around the table!”
If Filipinos, as they say, “move on their stomachs,” may the efforts of “Chefs for Peace” move us toward a just, lasting and delicious p
